A Golfer's Paradise

I decided to start covering "desirable destinations" a while ago, when I realized it's hard to fully explain the golfing experience at a place if I've never been there! So for now I'll be posting the travels of other people.

Indonesia: a destination that may bring images of South Pacific to many minds but it turns out to offer a one-of-a-kind golf adventure!Raymond Bonner just wrote a great article, chronicling the amazing golf that can be played in Indonesia. The NYT column reveals the entirely unusual offerings from these tropical courses. From the breath-taking views and innovative course design, to the phenomena of ball-snatchers: kids who will grab your ball when it lands in the jungle (as opposed to the fairway) and then sell it back to you.

"A Secret Garden of Golf (Mind the Jungle)" is definitely an interesting read. Raymond goes through the atmosphere at several courses in Indonesia, including the Jakarta Golf Club (since 1872). He also provides a lot of helpful resources for planning a trip to the islands.

For basic info check out www.IndoGolf.com

Keep reading for all of Raymond's Indonesian advice and finds ...


"VISITOR INFORMATION

There are no accomplished golf tour operators in Indonesia, so a golf holiday there is a do-it-yourself operation. But don’t let that deter you. Golf Promo Indonesia, at www.indogolf.com, gives basic information on dozens of courses on Java, Bali and other islands.

Don’t be put off when you read that a course is for “members and guests.” During the week, it is possible to play almost any course. Greens fees fluctuate roughly from $30 to more than $100, depending on time of year, day of the week and the exchange rate, which is now about 9,270 rupiahs to the dollar.

WHERE TO PLAY

I took an informal survey of playing colleagues for courses they would recommend to visitors. The panel, whose handicaps ranged from 2 to 28, included five ambassadors, several foreign business executives and an Indonesian, Winston Wiharto, who owns a courier company, is a member at several clubs and is the intrepid organizer of a motley bunch for Saturday golf (groups.yahoo.com/group/wwfriendship).

Here are their recommendations:

JAKARTA AREA

Jagorawi Golf and Country Club (62-21-875-3810-15; www.jagorawi.com) is about 45 minutes south of Jakarta on the Jagorawi toll road. This is the rare course that is difficult to get on without a member sponsor. But guests at the Lodge at Jagorawi (62-21-879 02483), where a double is 550,000 rupiahs, about $60, and a suite 880,000, or $95, can play, as well use the 25-meter pool and the tennis courts.

Another option is to stay at the Gran Melia, a 428-room, luxury hotel in central Jakarta (62-21-526-8080, www.granmeliajakarta.com), which has an arrangement with Jagorawi, allowing guests to play. John Richards, the general manager at the Park Lane (www.parklanejakarta.com), and managers at other hotels, including the Shangri-La and Mandarin, can get guests at their hotels privileges as well.

Emeralda Golf Club (62-21-875-9019; www.emeraldagolfclub.com) is just down the toll road from Jagorawi, as is the Riverside Golf Club (62-21-867-1533; www.riverside-golf.com), where there is a meandering swimming pool for children or a spouse who might not play golf.

Bukit Pelangi Golf and Country Club, or Rainbow Hill (62-251-270-222, www.bukitpelangigolf.com), is not far from those courses, but is at a higher altitude in Bogor, and so is delightfully cooler.

Bumi Serpong Damai (62-21-537-0290; www.damaiindah-golf.com) in North Jakarta is another course that is supposed to be for “members and guests.” But I had no trouble getting a tee time on a Monday morning a couple of months ago.

Bogor Raya (62-251-271-888; www.bogorlakeside.com/golf.html) is a verdant course in pleasant climes near Bogor. Its clubhouse has a locker room that offers views of the greenery.

Rancamaya Golf and Country Club (62-251-242 282; www.rancamayaestate.com) is a resort-housing-golf development near Bogor Raya. It is hard, but not impossible, to play without a member sponsor, but it has a long list of courses in the United States, Europe, Australia and Asia with which it has reciprocal privileges.

Cenkareng Golf Club (62-21-5591-1111; www.cengkarenggolfclub.com) is so close to the international airport that the local name for a high tee shot is a Garuda, after the national airline. One of the most popular courses in Southeast Asia, it gets more than 70,000 rounds a year. But the wear doesn’t show on this well-maintained course. The biggest drawback is that if a military general or high government official shows up, he and his entourage are given priority, and a round can take six hours.

BALI

Bali Nirwana (62-361-815-960; www.nirwanabaligolf.com) at Le Méridien Nirwana Golf and Spa Resort was designed by Greg Norman, and has a feel of Pebble Beach or New South Wales. It is often on lists of top 100 courses in the world. The par 3 seventh hole abuts the Indian Ocean, with a view of a Hindu temple on an adjacent spit of land. With Bali out of favor because of the recent terrorist incidents, it is relatively easy to get a tee time, but at $150, it is the priciest course in the country ($88 for resort guests).

Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club (62-362-22646; www.balihandarakosaido.com) is the opposite experience of Bali Nirwana: it is in the mountains, above 3,700 feet, which keeps it cool, amid lush vegetation.

GETTING AROUND

There are two options — and renting a car and driving yourself is definitely not one. Either hire a hotel car and driver, or a Silver Bird taxi (62-21-798-1234 or 62-21-794-1234). Its cars are comfortable, spacious sedans, and the drivers are reliable and honest. From most major Jakarta hotels to Jagorawi, Riverside, Emeralda and Bogor, it will be less than $50 round trip. A hotel car and driver will cost at least twice that."




Source: Bonner, Raymond. "A Secret Garden of Golf (Mind the Jungle)," The New York Times: May 6, 2007.